Shanghai Commuting As China Business Metaphor. Or, Trust Kent Kedl With Your Business But Not Your Life.
Heard a great story on NPR's Marketplace last night on commuting in Shanghai and how it "is kind of a metaphor for doing business there." It is.
As NPR reporter, Scott Tong, explains, China's lack of commuter civility today can be explained by its history:
SCOTT TONG: The morning starts out nicely enough. Get dropped off at the subway, down the stairs, thru the turnstiles. On the platform the nice lady on the recording reminds me and 20 million others to act civilized. Let folks off the train before you get on. Ah, if it only worked that way. The train comes and people just charge each other. It sounds Darwinian, every man for himself, but cultural critic Zhu Dake says China's tumultuous history explains a lot.ZHU DAKE: When the communists took over in 1949, Beijing abandoned China's core value -- civility. Then the Cultural Revolution promoted violence against enemies, so don't blame the people for their behavior. They're victims.
My friend, Kent Kedl, who formerly grew up and lived in remotest Minnesota (Minneapolis, actually, but I think it fair to describe all of Minnesota as remote) chimes in with his own "chaos theory":
KENT KEDL: As Americans our personal space is measured in, you know, eighteen inches, or I can't remember what it is.China veteran Kent Kedl is a business consultant.
KEDL: Here it's nanometers, or something, micrometers, or zero.
Kedl says there's a "limited pie" mentality here. People here know it's a unique moment for China: economic opportunity and jobs and deals, and they're all scrambling for a slice. And If you're a businessman who thrives on this adrenaline, then chaos is part of the draw of China.
KEDL: No other place in the world can I go home at night and think to myself "something happened today that I have never seen before in my life," and China is fascinating and interesting and addicting for that reason.
The story goes on to describe various strategies for coping with Shanghai's hustle and bustle, ranging from revenge to resignation:
Two more stops, time to plot my exit strategy. To get to the door the unwritten rule is to physically push people aside without even saying excuse me. I'm out. Walking fast, approaching the escalator, and then, unexpectedly everything stops. A commuter is just standing in the middle of the escalator clogging up all the walkers, and then at the top another guy stops to make a cell phone call so the rest of us have to maneuver around him. On the street I detour again, around four leisurely coworkers who occupy the entire sidewalk. Getting frustrated. What to do? My friend Martin Jennet, at a Danish shipping company, used to employ the "get even" approach.MARTIN JENNET: I would walk really close to these guys with my elbows out, and just on purpose hit them, you know? Just to let them think. Eh, not any more.
But he says confrontation doesn't get results here, either on the street or in his case negotiating with a state-owned shipping company. You just can't force change on your terms.
JENNET: So it's either I accept the way things are, or I move. I go out. I go home.
Another option is to "go native":
Or you go native.Take the office elevator, my last obstacle. There's always a backup in the morning, and over time I've learned that you have to jostle for position. Otherwise you never get on. Kent Kedl says driving works the same way.
KEDL: When I first got to China I didn't know how to merge into traffic, and I finally realized it was like, you know, Ray Charles behind the wheel. You can't look, and you just hit the gas and go.His point is, it's a sink-or-swim, save-yourself kind economy, and you can sense it on the street. As one businessman put it, if we in the West get beat, it's because the Chinese have out-hustled us. Better get to work.
Kent's absolutely right about China business, but I'll be damned if I am ever going to let him drive me anywhere.


Comments
I have to point out, the take in "go native" is totally wrong. There are certain rules and etiquetts. But it can explain my impression: in China, the foreigners from the developed countries are generally more rude and ready for violence than the locals and the people from the developing countries.
Posted by: Leo | January 25, 2008 1:49 AM
What a silly piece!
Traffic is chaotic in many developing countries, and you can get cut off, or bumped into in any number of them, but that does NOT mean that the economy there is on fire. And to pick of all places, Shanghai! If any city is trending away from chaotic, that's the one. They have a traffic light at every intersection and you can't blow your horn anymore, and median dividers have been installed to prevent jaywalking.
Maybe I was in a different Shanghai than Kent Kedl,but I was walking down Huaihai Road and tried to jump a red light. Some old lady blew a whistle at me, and half a dozen other pedestrians gave me the stink eye. So much for a lack of civility.
Shanghai is great. It has the cleanest taxis in the region (ex-Japan), and I love the white glove thing (which they also do in Japan).
Compared to Minnesota, yes, Shanghai may seem hectic. Get over it, seriously.
Things a little tight on the subway this morning? How about Japan, where they have "people pushers". And let's not get into the other sorts of physical contact that goes on in Japanese subway cars, speaking of "civility".
Posted by: Berner | January 25, 2008 7:41 AM
Dan, First, let's get something straight. As a New Yorker, it's my right to drive fast and furious, so you just buckle up and enjoy the ride. I have no problem driving in China, and they watch out for me, not the other way around. We're not in Kansas anymore, Toto. If Kent Kedl thinks he can handle the wheel, I'd be glad to race him along those elevated skyways of Shanghai, with you straight-jacketed and belted in.
Second, the Cultural Revolution is no excuse for behavioral characteristics. Zhu Dake is off-base. Taipei in the mid-70's was no different. Getting on any bus or train was like catching the last vehicle out of a war zone. Be a gentleman and you can just wait for the next bus, then the next after that. People may snicker about how awful it is, but the alternative is to take a taxi, or walk, or strike it rich and have someone else drive you in your own automobile. Hence, the problem goes deeper than some intermittent political event, but Zhu knows it's politically incorrect to discuss it from that angle. China, that great mass of shifting sands blowing every which way, is the China we all have come to know and love. Indeed, love it or leave it.
Going native is the only way. It's kind of like marriage -- no one "changes" anyone else, and if you can't accept the way the other one is, then it's bound to fail.
Posted by: Law Office of Todd L. Platek | January 25, 2008 11:35 AM
Leo,
I bet you are right and here's my explanation. If you come to China from Denmark, you are used to everything "just working" so the frustration when it does not is greater than if you came to China from, let's say, India.
Posted by: China Law Blog | January 25, 2008 12:05 PM
Berner,
You make some valid points. Traffic rules are more and more being followed in Shanghai, and certainly more so than every other place I have been in China. Also, its cabs are not all that bad, I agree. In fact, I did a piece a few months back touting how much better they were than in Beijing. But, Shanghai does not compare to Tokyo or to Seoul in terms of traffic safety or in terms of its cabs. If I were to rank cities on a "hecticness" scale, Shanghai would absolutely be in my top ten. I have been to Vietnam, Turkey (Istanbul versus Shanghai would be an interesting contest), Korea, Japan, Singapore, HK, Macau, and just about everywhere in both Western and Eastern Europe, but never to Africa or to the Indian subcontinent, nor even to all that many places in Latin America.
My sense is that as the wealth of a country increases, its hectictness decreases. Certainly the case with Korea, where I have been going fairly regularly for the last 20 years.
Posted by: China Law Blog | January 25, 2008 12:11 PM
Todd,
Did you drive in China? There are certain things I know I will never do and get in a car with you as driver is one of those.
I agree that the "problem" goes deeper than an intermittent political event as I am convinced that it's all economics, stupid.
Posted by: China Law Blog | January 25, 2008 12:13 PM
@Todd - Too true, too many of things that people say are due to mainland China's recent past are found also in other Chinese speaking parts of the world (and in other places also, to tell the truth). However, China itself does not have the worst record for road safety, that goes to Russia. Check out some Russian road horror here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9JE7IZxl2s
I have to say, though, that if going native is the only option, then you had better check that your life-insurance is fully paid up!
Posted by: FOARP | January 25, 2008 1:02 PM
My...such energetic comments! Didn't know a simple piece on Shanghai traffic would generate such interest.
First of all, I don’t think that the Marketplace reporter, Scott Tong, was setting up a cause and effect relationship between traffic and business in China – i.e. traffic is crazy because business here is too (or the reverse). What he was saying (I think) is that there are similarities between the two and if you can’t handle the one, you are not likely to be able to handle the other. He was also saying that, as a foreigner, you are not going to change it…it is what it is. Too many foreign companies come here and, like Mr. Jennet in the piece who walked with his elbows out, they think they can “change China” by acting a certain way (as in “well, I know that this is the way it is done in China, but in OUR company we…(fill in blank with the “right” way to do something). Mr. Jennet learned that you should probably walk with your elbows in and just go along with the crowd.
When I talked about "going native", what I meant, simply, was that we foreigners are NOT Chinese. My first 5 years in China, I thought I could be Chinese...if I just learned the language well enough, understood the culture deeply enough, blended in enough. But then I realized that was impossible and I have spent the subsequent 18 years trying to find where I do "fit" here. When I find out, I will let you know.
As for the challenge to race in Shanghai, I will have to decline. Anyone who THINKS they can race here and actually WANTS to is beyond my league…I am just trying to get my kids to volleyball practice!
Posted by: Kent Kedl | January 25, 2008 4:30 PM
CLB: Drove and drive plenty around Shanghai, Zhejiang and Jiangsu. Haven't ventured farther west or north yet, but just a question of time. I enjoy the manual more than the automatic, keeps one more in the spirit of the game.
FOARP: Yes, plenty of life insurance; just switched from NYS Bar Assn-sponsored plan to Allstate, with lower premium and increased (potential) return (but not a return that I would enjoy during my mortal meanderings on this planet, since it is payable only upon my making a non-returnable exit). Mrs. Platek will deliver a healthy dowry to the next chap, and certainly huger than the one she brought to me 30 years ago. Hmmm....wonder whether there are alternative candidates to nominate as beneficiary? Oh, well, enough of such naughty thoughts, to which my beloved China well lends itself.
Posted by: Law Office of Todd L. Platek | January 26, 2008 8:11 AM
NPR: "Our China correspondent Scott Tong says his trip to and from the office is kind of a metaphor for doing business there."
KK: In order to succeed in China, sometimes you've got to close your eyes and hope for the best. "Don't look. Just hit the gas and go."
We're all familiar with metaphors. The questions is whether China consultants are really telling their clients to do business like they drive, that in order to succeed in the China market you've sometimes got to close your eyes and move forward. This is all further to my point about this being a "silly piece". But if Mr. Ray Charles wants to stand behind his comments and NPR's suggestion of a metaphor, by all means!
Posted by: Berner | January 26, 2008 8:30 AM
Berner: Lighten up, man. The piece was entertaining, if not strictly legal-oriented.
As far as your experience on Huai Hai Lu, that ain't a lot of Shanghai reality. Sounds more like Germany, where no one crosses against a red light even when there isn't a car coming for two miles. I often get swarms of Shanghai bicyclists pedaling around me in both directions, like salmon swimming upriver and downriver and every-which-way, and in the countryside, they swerve all over to avoid the craterous potholes. White-begloved taxi drivers? I seem to get the ones who drive bare-knuckled, playing music loud and bitter about their lot in life, and just as likely to drive into on-coming traffic as stay in lane. But it's all good, as they say in Georgia.
Posted by: Law Office of Todd L. Platek | January 27, 2008 9:53 AM